Christmas Eve in the Cape is high summer, and I remember flying in over vineyards baking gold in the last of the evening light, the air so warm that my suit and I had words about it. I set down near a farmhouse with its stoep doors flung open to catch the breeze, where a family had gathered around a long table in the cool of the evening, the day’s heat finally beginning to ease.
They had left me a plate of soetkoekies, and I knew them at once by their scent: butter and cinnamon, ginger, clove, and nutmeg, the four warm spices of the old Cape kitchens. Crumbly and rich, sandy at the edge, they broke softly under the teeth and melted into sweetness. I ate one, then reached past all better judgment for a second.
These are soetkoekies, which simply means sweet cookies, cousins to the gemmerkoekie ginger biscuit and to a whole family of spiced treats the Cape-Dutch settlers baked generations ago. Their recipe was written down in the Cape well over a century ago, and it traveled far across Southern Africa on farmhouse tables just like this one. I will not dress them up as anything grander than they are: honest, buttery, deeply spiced, and exactly right on a hot December night.
Soetkoekies (South African Spiced Cookies)
Ingredients
- 1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
- 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
- 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
- 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
- 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- 1/2 cup unsalted butter softened
- 3/4 cup granulated sugar
- 1 large egg
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
- 1 tsp fresh orange peel
- 1 tsp freshly grated ginger
Instructions
- Preheat your oven to 350 °F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
- In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, ground cinnamon, ground ginger, ground nutmeg, ground cloves, baking powder, and salt. Set aside.1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour, 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger, 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg, 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves, 1/2 teaspoon baking powder, 1/4 teaspoon salt
- In a large mixing bowl, cream together the softened butter and granulated sugar until light and fluffy. You can use a hand mixer or a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment.1/2 cup unsalted butter, 3/4 cup granulated sugar
- Add the egg, vanilla extract, fresh orange, and ginger to the butter and sugar mixture and beat well until fully combined.1 large egg, 1 teaspoon vanilla extract, 1 tsp fresh orange peel, 1 tsp freshly grated ginger
- Gradually add the dry ingredient mixture to the wet ingredients, mixing until a dough forms. The dough may be slightly crumbly, but it should hold together when pressed.
- Shape the dough into a ball, cover it with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. Chilling the dough helps it firm up and makes it easier to work with.
- Once the dough is chilled, roll it out to about 1/4 inch thickness on a lightly floured surface. Use cookie cutters to cut out your desired shapes and place them on the prepared baking sheet.
- Bake the cookies in the preheated oven for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the edges are lightly golden. The baking time may vary depending on the size and thickness of your cookies, so keep a close eye on them.
- Remove the baking sheet from the oven and let the cookies cool on the sheet for a few minutes. Then, transfer them to a wire rack to cool completely.
- Once cooled, you can decorate the cookies with icing, sprinkles, or enjoy them as they are.
Notes
Substitutions
- Flour: all-purpose wheat flour gives these soetkoekies their classic crumbly, sandy bite. If you would like a gluten-free version, you can swap the flour one-for-one for a good gluten-free blend; choose one with a binder like xanthan gum and the texture will come out close.
- Warm spices (cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cloves): these four are the heart of a soetkoekie. The amounts are a guide, so lean into whichever you love most.
- Baking powder: a little lift, and it works best when it is fresh.
- Butter: softened unsalted butter carries the richness. Salted butter is fine too, just ease back on the added salt, and a plant-based butter makes them dairy-free.
- Granulated sugar: for sweetness and that tender crumb. Coconut sugar or a sugar substitute will work, with a small change in flavor and color.
- Egg: it binds the dough and adds a little moisture. For an egg-free version, a flax egg (1 tablespoon ground flaxseed mixed with 3 tablespoons water) does the job.
- Vanilla: rounds out the spice.
- Fresh orange peel and grated ginger: both are optional, but I never leave them out. They brighten the whole cookie and make the kitchen smell wonderful.
Storage & Make-Ahead
Storage
- Let the soetkoekies cool completely before you store them. A warm cookie sealed away makes condensation, and condensation softens that lovely crumbly edge.
- Keep them in an airtight container, clean and dry, with a sheet of parchment between the layers so they do not stick together.
- Store them somewhere cool and dry, away from too much heat or humidity. Kept this way, they stay fresh for about one to two weeks.
Make-Ahead
- Chill the dough: you can make the dough up to two days ahead and keep it wrapped in the refrigerator. Let it soften slightly at room temperature before rolling.
- Freeze the dough: for the long game, shape the dough into a disc, wrap it well, and freeze it for up to three months. Thaw it overnight in the refrigerator before rolling.
- Freeze cut shapes: you can also cut the cookies and freeze them on a tray, then bake straight from frozen with an extra minute or two.
- Freeze baked cookies: cooled soetkoekies freeze beautifully for up to three months. Bring them back to room temperature before serving.
Nutrition
How to Make Soetkoekies (step by step)
These come together quickly, and the dough is a forgiving one, so it is a lovely recipe to make with little helpers at your elbow.
Prepare the dry ingredients
Preheat your oven to 350°F (175°C) and line your baking sheets with parchment paper. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, ground cinnamon, ground ginger, ground nutmeg, ground cloves, baking powder, and salt, then set it aside.
Prepare the wet ingredients
In a large mixing bowl, cream together the softened butter and granulated sugar until light and fluffy, using a hand mixer or a stand mixer with the paddle attachment. Beat in the egg, the vanilla, the fresh grated ginger, and the orange peel until everything is well combined.
Bring the dough together
Gradually add the dry mixture to the wet, stirring until a dough forms. It will look a little crumbly, which is exactly right for a soetkoekie, but it should hold together when you press it. Shape it into a ball, wrap it in plastic, and chill it for at least 30 minutes so it firms up and rolls out easily.
Cut out the cookies
On a lightly floured surface, roll the chilled dough to about a quarter inch thick. Cut out your shapes with cookie cutters and lift them onto the prepared baking sheets.
Bake
Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until the edges are lightly golden. The time will vary a little with the size and thickness of your cookies, so keep an eye on them. Let them cool on the sheet for a few minutes, then move them to a wire rack to cool completely. Once cooled, you can decorate them with a little icing and sprinkles, or simply enjoy them as they are.
